Five Types of "Godaan"

One of the earliest methods to measure wealth was by the number of cattle or amount of grains. Practice of estimation of a person's wealth through "cattle wealth" is over 10,000 years old. It was in use much before money in the form of coins gained practice. Cows are one of the important components of cattle wealth and are much in use even today. In our country, cows are also considered sacred by a large section of population. Performing "Go (Cow) Pooja" is an integral part of the morning prayers for many. Gifting cows is considered as an important ritual. One of the important stages of preparing for the journey to the next world is gifting a cow. Gifting cows to the deserved in the name of a departed soul in the family is practiced even in present days. In all such rituals, cow is always accompanied by a calf and they are decorated and worshipped before gifting away. The person receiving the cow as gift is expected to take proper care of it and use its milk for his sacred rituals besides use for his own family members. Its milk, curd, butter and ghee are put to various uses. Any sacred ritual is incomplete without these items, especially the ghee.

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Hari Mahato, a poor farmer, had a desire to have his own cow. He borrows a cow and owes Rupees 80 to the seller. He for some reason cheats his own brother for Rupees 10. The unhappy brother poisons the cow and runs away being afraid of the crime. Hari Mahato borrows some more money to clear the brother's name. He and his wife shelter his son's lover, a widow. Hari takes another loan to pay the penalty for sheltering her. He gets one of his daughter married off for Rupees 200 to save a piece of ancestral land. One by one, his debts mount. In his eagerness to pay off all these debts, he overworks and is about die. His devoted and ever suffering but generous wife Dhaniya pools all her savings and the little sum is used for his "Godaan" before his death. He had a dream of owning a cow to provide enough milk to his grandson. He never realises this dream during his lifetime. But he dies with the satisfaction of having made a "Godaan" before his death. He is half satisfied at death; not achieving the dream of having a cow to provide milk for his grandson but having made "Godaan" before his death. 

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The above is a short summary of the famous novel "Godaan" in Hindi language, by Munshi Premchand. Munshi Premchand lived all his life around Benares (Varanasi) and Allahabad (Prayag Raj) except a few years towards the end of his life in Bombay (Mumbai). Dhanpat Rai Shrivastava was his real name and he used "Nawab Rai" and "Munshi Premchand" as his pen names. He lived for only 56 years (1880-1936). He lost his mother when he was eight years old and spent his entire life in struggles to earn and make a livelihood. His own financial difficulties find a reflection in many of his works. Godaan was his last completed work and was released in the year 1936. He wrote over 300 short stories and 14 novels. He was bestowed with the title "Upanyas Samrat", meaning "Emperor among Novelists". He has also written many essays and translated many works in foreign languages to Hindi. He continues to be a highly respected writer even today.

Premchand's novel "Godaan" presents a beautiful picture (though not a very happy one) of the honesty and sufferings of the Mahato family. Intricate caste politics and exploitation of the week can be seen throughout the novel. Social and economic conditions of the suffering people can be seen in all his works. His Godaan was translated into English as "Gift of the Cow". He tried his hand in the film land also towards the end of his life by writing scripts for some films. His early schooling was in a Madrasa and that helped him learn Urdu and Persian languages as well. 

Godaan, considered as one of the greatest novels in Hindi and modren Indian Literature, was made into a film in Hindi in 1963 with Raj Kumar, Shashikala and Mahmood as lead artistes. It was also a part of the TV serial in 2004, directed by Gulzar and starring Pankaj Kapur. His another novel "Shatranj Ke Khiladi", meaning Chess Players, was made a movie by Satyajit Ray. Premchand's literary pursuits are to be viewed in the background of his own humble life and struggles for survival. 

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Garuda Purana graphically explains the journey of the soul after the death of the human body. One has to cross the "River of Hell" Vaitarani, on the way. The description of this river is extremely fearsome to read and hear. In order to cross the river easily, one has to do a Godaan or Gift a Cow during his life time. Those doing so are believed to be taken across the river in a boat or fly across by holding the tail of the cow. Those who do not do this are made to swim in the river of filth and filled with deadly animals and crocodiles. It is for this reason that shraddalu people make a Godaan during their life time or at least in the last days before their death. There is also a practice of the sons or relatives making a Godaan on behalf of the deceased, within a year of the death.

Though Vaitarani Godaan is well known, there are actually five Godaans one has to make during his lifetime. They are:

1. Runa Godaana (ऋण गोदान): During one's life a person has to repay many debts to others. Some of these may be very small amounts and taken from known people with the promise of paying back shortly. An example may be a small change taken in a temple or for bus fare. There is a promise to return the amount involved. However, the amount is small enough for the giver not to demand it later or the taker to keep a track and return in due course. A debt is a debt, irrespective of the amount involved as there is a promise to pay back. If the debt is not discharged, the receiver has to take another birth to repay and the giver to receive it! Runa Godaan is made to settle all such outstanding debts during one's lifetime. No loan waiver by any government discharges such debts, but this Godaan can.
2. Utkranti Godaana (उत्क्रान्ति गोदान): Death is generally said to come with lot of pain and suffering. Even if others feel that death was painless, the dying feels the pain. Utkaranti Godaana is made to prevent such pain at the time of death.
3. Antardhenu Godaana (अन्तर्धेनु गोदान): One has to walk a long distance on the hot road after death. An Antardhenu Godaana saves this horrid journey and may even be provided a horse to travel the distance. 
4. Vaitarani Godaana (वैतरणी गोदान): Vaitarani Godan is for the purpose of crossing the river of hell Vaitarani. Such a Godaana provides a safe journey across the dangerous river as discussed above.
5. Moksha Dhenu Godaana (मोक्ष धेनु गोदान): The ultimate aim is to escape the birth-death cycle. Moksha Dhenu Godaana supports achieving this goal. Leading a pious life and being useful in society is a prerequisite for this Godaana to be fruitful.

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Is there a simple method to save one from all such troubles? Srimad Bhagavata says that reading or listening of one verse from it is equal to 3000 Godaans. But that should be done with full concentration and devotion to the Lord. Doing it with such concentration and devotion is indeed difficult for most of us.

What is Your Aim?

Those were the early days of our college life. One of the Lecturers had just finished his post-graduation and was in the first year of his teaching profession. We were new students and he was a new Lecturer. The new Lecturer was looking like another student in the campus with only a few years of age separating us. One of our classmates was a little mischievous. He did something in one of the sessions that distracted the lecturer's attention. The Lecturer got angry and shot a question at the mischievous student. The student could not answer and looked helpless. A veteran teacher might have handled the situation in a better manner. This student had the habit of taking many end to end walks in the only long road of the town. Everyone knew of this habit of his. Not yet used to subtle classroom management, the lecturer asked him another question.

"I see you wandering (moving from place to place without a fixed plan) aimlessly in the streets everyday. Can you not answer this simple question?"

The student shot back instantaneously. 

"Aimlessly wandering itself is my Aim, Sir"

Parthasarathy probably won the round that day. But were his long walks really aimless? 

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We often hear about aims, goals and plans. Aim is defined in the dictionary as "to intend or direct for a particular effect or purpose" and "something intended or desired to be achieved by one's efforts".  It naturally flows from this that achievement of a goal or target is the result of conscious efforts to reach something clearly defined, towards which such efforts are directed. 

Aim or Objective is important in all walks of life. Aimless efforts are often a waste of valuable and scarce resources. Time is one of the most valuable resource as it cannot be replaced or brought back. In the context of teaching and learning or training, "Aim" or "Objective" assumes paramount importance for both teacher/trainer and student/trainee. Courses or programs are planned and devised to meet specific objectives. In longer programs that run for several months or years, the basic objectives of the programs is like the blueprint of a building to be constructed. These objectives are further divided into subjects or topics with focused aims to be achieved, resembling details of each of the rooms to be constructed in that building. The learning and training objectives of each subject or topics are further sub-divided into learning points to be covered under teaching or training sessions. These sub-learning points identify the minute details of each component or item in the room. 

The entire process of learning or training is expected to achieve the desired outcome of the aggregate of all sub-learning points that go on to make the subjects or topics which in turn complete the course, and ultimately achieve the overall aims of conducting the learning or training program. It is therefore imperative that both teachers/trainers and students/trainees are clear about the aims or objectives of each session as well as the whole course and never lose their focus. Otherwise it becomes aimless wandering.

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Is there any reference in our ancient texts about having specific aims in actions? Do they deal with such aimless wandering? There are definitely many references to having well-defined aims before actions. The popular phrase used is Prayojanamanuddishya Na Mandopi Pravartate (प्रयोजनमनुद्दिश्य न मन्दोऽपि प्रवर्तते). It means "Even a fool will not start a work without seeing its utility". It is found in the 59th verse of Sri Parashara Smriti. Sage Parashara is the grandson of Sage Vasishta and father of Sage Veda Vyasa. While discussing importance of aim with his friend and classmate Sage Mitreya, Sage Parashara mentions this. The word "Manda" denotes a person of low IQ or a stupid person, mentally dull and lacking sense. The import of the discussion is that when even a dull and stupid person does not venture into actions without weighing the likely rewards or outcome, how come a man of ordinary intelligence plunge into actions? This is even more relevant in the case of intelligent people pursuing higher goals.

It is said that this phrase finds references in the works of Mimamsakas like Kumarila Bhatta, who believed that the "Karta" or the "Doer" is the centre of all activities and pursuits.

The full reference for this quotation can be seen in the celebrated work Sarva Vedanta Siddhanta Saara Sangraha of Sri Shankara Bhagavatpada or Sri Adi Shankara. Verse 12 of this work reads thus:

प्रयोजनम् संप्रवृत्तेः कारणं फललक्षणम् |

प्रयोजनमनुद्दिश्य न मन्दोऽपि प्रवर्तते ||

Prayojananam sampravruteeh kaaranam phalalakshanam

Prayojanamanuddishya na mandopi pravartate

There can be arguments that some actions have no aim. An example can be when a child smiles at someone around. What is the aim of that action of smiling and what does the child get back? The answer for the question is that the child is acknowledging someone's presence and the smile is an expression of that recognition. What is the reward? The someone at whom the child smiles also returns the smile involuntarily. The child learns the first lessons of communication and is benefited by the process resulting in its overall growth. That the child loses this innocence as it grows and refuses to acknowledge presence of others is a different matter. 

What about the actions of a Saadhaka who is indulging in Nishkama Karma? He does not expect anything while discharging his duties. Does he not have any aims? For such a person, discharging his duties without any rewards is itself the aim and goal. His actions automatically get the rewards of contentment and fulfilment.

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In summary, one should have well defined aims or objectives before actions. The actions must be implemented in the directions of those well-defined goals. The aims and goals are never to be lost sight of in the midst of actions. When there is no definite aim or when actions are made having lost sight of the defined aim, it results in aimless wandering. Then it becomes the proverbial wild-goose chase!

Trial by Bench and Trial by Jury

These are the days of Biopics. Biopics have been produced since a long time, but it has become a regular trend nowadays. A Biopic is actually a Biographical Film, that dramatises a historical or non-fictional person and use his real name. There are also many films in which real life happenings are used with suitable changes to suit the motion picture medium. In some cases names are also changed, but everyone including the viewers know the reality. Sometimes the changes made are so bizarre that real life villains become heroes on the screen or vice versa. The Lord and Filmmakers are the only two authorities who can make and unmake and make something else out of nothing. Filmmakers make subtle or not so subtle use of the sentiments of the viewing public and en-cash it for their financial successes. There are many instances of the same person, issue or idea used for production of films at different periods of time. It is also true that films on some of these subjects have an eternal appeal on the general public. Many films on the same topic have been successful at box office each time they were produced. One such recent film is Rustom, produced two years ago, in 2016. 

The case of K M Nanavati vs. State of Maharashtra (1958-59 and decided in 1961) is one such instance. The case was on a murder charge on Commander K M Nanavati for the death of his friend Prem Ahuja. The case was tried before a jury. Jury returned a verdict of 8-1 that he was not guilty. The jury verdict was overturned by Bombay High Court and Nanavati was convicted. Subsequently Governor of Maharashtra granted him pardon. It is said that Nanavati, his wife and three children migrated to Canada. Nanavati died there in 2003. 

The Nanavati case aroused lot of passion among the general public. Newspapers reporting proceedings of the case were sold on the streets for six to eight times of their normal edition prices. Nanavati pistol models were sold on footpath. Public sentiment was with the decision of the jury.

Trial by Bench and Trial by Jury are in practice all over the world. In Trial by the Bench, the presiding officer of the court (The Judge) weighs the evidence and arguments and pronounces the judgement. In Trial by Jury, the proceedings are controlled and monitored by the Presiding Officer of the court (The Judge), but the members of the Jury decide whether the accused person is guilty or not guilty. Members of the jury are selected from among the common people. After the case of K M Nanavati Vs. State of Maharashtra, jury system was abolished in our country by amending the Criminal Procedure Code. Now cases are decided by the Presiding Officer of the designated court and there is no system of using jury. That is why we see members of jury in old Hindi movies, but it is not available in present films. 

Three Hindi films have been produced so far using the Nanavati case, with changes for the films. The first was "Yeh Rastey Hain Pyar Ke" (1963) starring Sunil Dutt. "Achanak" (1973) with Vinod Khanna in the lead had some more changes for the film. "Rustom" with Akshay Kumar in the lead was produced in 2016. Akshay Kumar also won the "Best Actor" award for this role in 64th National Film Awards, 2017.

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Second anniversary of Demonetisation is being observed during this week. The earlier practice was to celebrate birth anniversary of people who are alive and death anniversary of people who left us. Now we have both birth and death anniversaries of various personalities being celebrated. The numbers have crossed the number of days in the calendars and shortly we may have to celebrate them in shifts when more than one anniversary falls on the same day. We may also have two time slots for each such anniversary, one for celebrating and one for opposing such celebrations. 

What were the goals of this Demonetisation? Is it a success or a failure? Who is to decide this? Should it be a trial by a Jury or a trial by a Bench? These are just and proper questions that can be asked, but we may never get a just and proper answer. The views expressed by various responsible personalities have more personalities in the discussion than a fair evaluation of the signs of success or failure!

Finance Minister made a strong defence of the step saying Demonetisation resulted in formalisation of the economy and increased tax base, with the Government earmarking more resources for the poor and infrastructure development. Its opponents have gone to the extent of claiming that it was a brutal conspiracy and a shrewd scheme to convert the black money of those close to the people in power. They say that drawing any other meaning to the exercise will be an insult to the intelligence of the nation. Former Prime Minister says that the scars and wounds it caused are getting more visible with time and the decision's second anniversary is a day to remember how "economic misadventure" can roil the nation.

The discourse on Demonetisation is just like what we hear in a court of law. At times it is even worse because claims and arguments made in the court are to be based on law and facts. Discussion on Demonetisation need not be with such constraints. Each one is free to mention or shout about what they feel it to be true. There are many shades of arguments:

• It was one of the brightest ideas that was implemented brilliantly.
• It was a good scheme with great success.
• it was a good idea but implementation was poor.
• It was a bad idea implemented equally badly.
• It was a bad idea implemented even worse.
• It was an ill-conceived and ill-fated exercise.

Of course, there are millions who do not know what it is actually was because they never had any money with them for demonetising. There are claims that 100 lives were lost and 15 crore daily wage earners lost their wages for several weeks. There were unending queues before banks. 2000 rupee notes were available in the market but nobody would accept them because they did not have change. There were reports that employers had one job for their workers for a month - to go the bank every day and exchange 4000 rupee value old notes for new notes. There were claims of bankers facilitating unholy exchange of old notes for new ones. There were reports of trucks directly going to houses of black money hoarders instead of ATMs. Of many more such issues and reports.

What has happened in two years? Some verifiable facts are as under:

• 99.3% of demonetised money has returned to the RBI.
• Financialisation of hidden savings took place.
• Number of tax returns filed have increased and revenue collection has gone up.
• There were huge economic, social and political costs, but returns are not clear.
• Small business and SME units suffered during and immediately after implementation of the scheme.
• Digital payments increased substantially immediately after the scheme.
• There was some suffering for Non-residents in exchanging their demonetised money.
• Digital transactions went up by 82% in 2 years. (It would have gone up by 40% even without the scheme)
• Money in circulation has come back to old levels now and it has even increased.
• Bankers had stressful days. 
• More than 40 changes in the scheme were made during implementation. One interpretation was that this was a signal of the responsiveness of government/RBI. Another interpretation was that this showed that it was an exercise undertaken without giving full thought to the repercussions.
• Many questions are still unanswered about cost of implementing the scheme.
• Counterfeit notes came down by 31.4%.
• Implementation of GST during the period has added to the fluidity of the situation.

Evaluation of success or failure of the scheme has been rendered difficult because all the goals were not clear from the outset. Though fighting black money and blocking counterfeit notes was mentioned as objectives, government did not publish a clear item by item goal list and expectations. Though the move was to have been sudden to keep the element of surprise, this list could have been published in the initial two or three days of implementing the scheme. RBI took inordinate time to put out figures of returned value of notes or the cost of their handling. Government never mentioned while implementing the scheme that it did not expect demonetised currency returned to RBI would be less than what was in circulation. When speculation was rife that a large chunk will be lost and thereby ensure success of the scheme, government played along with the hope that it would be so and credit for the same can be claimed. When 99.3% of the money has come back, it is now being mentioned that this was not an objective of the scheme.

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A proper evaluation of the scheme is impossible when the goals were not entirely clear and parties on either side are not prepared for a factual evaluation, but go by emotional judgement. Trial by Bench is not possible because nobody is prepared to establish a bench for this purpose. Trial by Jury is abolished by Criminal Procedure Code. But political discourse is now decided by Trial by Jury. There are many Trials by different sets of Jury. They would never be able to come to an unanimous verdict! Each one continues to hold to his own view; more by force of emotions and political expediency, than by stated goals on record and verifiable facts and figures. 

I Will Shoot Him Down

Holiday season is a nightmare for any administrator and more particularly to a bank Branch Manager. This is even more true of days when there are holidays on either side of a working day. Some of the staff members are excellent planners. They make a full plan of availing holidays during the entire year as soon as "Holiday List" for the next year is received. Their diary is marked with the declared holidays when the list is published. Then the leave for which they are entitled are apportioned to the in-between working days so that a longer period of leaving the work is ensured. This is done very efficiently even if such efficiency in planning is nowhere to be seen in any other aspects of their work. Of course, such planning is needed for those who have their own families living in another place. Branches or offices have their own methods to ensure that some skeleton staff are available on such in-between working days. There are some staff members who are either forced to work or are willing to shoulder the duties on such days.

This incident happened exactly 45 years ago during Deepavali festivals. Deepavali or Diwali is celebrated in our country during a period of 3 to 4 days, starting from Dhan Teras to Bali Padyami or Pratipada. Holidays are declared on some days and naturally there will be some in-between working days during the festive celebrations. As per the arrangement at the branch, I was one of the persons required to work on that day. There was the usual sound of crackers around the branch premises. Greetings and sweet boxes were being exchanged everywhere. 

The branch premises was opened for the day and we had taken our seats in the banking hall. A very distinguished looking customer entered the branch and went to the Branch Manager's cabin. Branch Manager greeted him warmly and the customer acknowledged the greetings. He took out some pass books and fixed deposit receipts from his leather handbag and placed them on the Branch Manager's table. Those were the days when computers were not even heard of. I was called to the cabin, given the pass books and advised to update them as the regular staff member handling this work was on leave that day.

When the ledgers were opened for updating the pass books, an interesting aspect came to light. The three pass books were with the same name - Lt Col S S Kashinath, Col S S Kashinath and Capt. S S Kashinath. The ledger accounts were however had full names. The names were Lt Col Shiva Shankar Kashinath (Retired), Col Shambu Shiva Kashinath and Capt. Shankar Shambhu Kashinath. Lt Col S S Kashinath (Retd) was the person who had come to the branch that day. 

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Those serving in the armed forces of the country are very particular about their ranks being recognised correctly. Staff handling such accounts are to be alive to the rules followed in writing their names and ranks appropriately. My branch manager had sensitised us youngsters about these requirements.

• A retired officer's name must be written as while in service and then the word (Retd) is to be added in the end. For example, Lt Col S S Kashinath had since retired from active service. His name was to be written as Lt Col S S Kashinath (Retd) and not as Lt Col (Retd) S S Kashinath. This is because of the principle that the officer holding the rank retires, but not the rank. This is to be meticulously followed.
• Letters sent by post to army personnel is sent to C/O APO (Army Post Office) as their actual place of posting is not known to us. APO would deliver the same to them at their place.
• A Lt Colonel is to be addressed as Colonel and not as Lt Colonel. However, while writing the name on paper or document or letter, it is Lt Colonel. But while addressing the person, it is Colonel.
• Similarly, a Major General or Lt General is to be addressed as General. But the envelope or document will carry the actual rank in full.
• Similar practice is to be followed for officers of other armed forces as well.

The three pass books before me were of three generation of army officers; Father, Son and Grandson. Father joined the army and had a distinguished career and retired as Lt Colonel. Son joined the army when the father was still in service and was presently serving in a forward position on the North East Frontier. The Grandson continued the family tradition and joined the army too. He was serving on the westren borders. Father and son were both highly decorated officers for their distinguished service. There was every indication that the grandson would continue on the same path. As per  the family tradition all of them had the surname Kashinath, but their names were Shiva Shankar, Shambhu Shiva and Shankar Shambhu respectively.

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After updating the passbooks, they were handed over to the customer by the Manager. The visitor took out a sheet of paper from his leather folder and gave it to the Manager. He had made some notes therein. While I was standing there for any further instructions, he spoke to the Manager thus:

"Mr Rao, we are a family of soldiers. For us, money is not that important. Myself, my son and my grandson have excellent relations between us. My son does not mind if I take his money. I will be very happy if my son or grandson take my money. That is fine between the three of us. But it does not mean that the bank can meddle with our funds. I was struggling to reconcile the balances in my account as the balance amount was much higher than it ought to have been. Then I realised that my son's salary is being credited to my account and my pension is going to him! Interest on my grandson's Term Deposits are going to my son's account. This is not acceptable to us. Should I open the accounts in three different banks to solve this problem?"

The experienced Branch Manager handled the situation very well. He politely apologised to the customer and requested for some time to study the discrepancies and settle them. The colonel agreed and said he would come in the afternoon to collect the pass books. He wanted the rectification entries to be passed so that proper balances were reflected in all the three accounts. 

We had to sort out each entry by referring to the old records. Rectification entries were passed and notes were prepared explaining the entries. Proper noting were made in the relevant records for future actions. We proceeded to lunch only after the entire exercise was completed.

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The Colonel returned to the branch in the afternoon. He verified the pass books and rectification entries. He was apparently satisfied. He thanked the Branch Manager, but said that he hoped that these things would not repeat in future. 

"Please advise your staff to handle the accounts properly. Next time when I come to the bank, I will come with my revolver. Show me the person who creates such mess. I will shoot him down!", he said while leaving the Manager's cabin.

Whether he joked or really meant it, we would never know. There was no such problem again in those accounts as long as I was in that branch. Every staff member saw a revolver pointed at him each time he saw a voucher (accounting record) relating to the account of S S Kashinath. 

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With the advent of computerisation, one hoped such instances would never happen. But that is not to be. Even now we have cases where transactions of a family or group accounts messed up due to the staff mixing up Customer-IDs and hurrying up while selecting items from drop down box in the CBS system. I had a similar case last month in one of my own accounts. May be Lt Col S S Kashinath (Retd) should visit such branches with his revolver!

The Tiger's Nest

Guru Padmasambhava, often referred to as Guru Rinpoche, occupies a very important place in Buddhist philosophy. The word Padmasambhava literally means as the one born in a Lotus. (Chaturmukha Brahma, the four headed creator in Hindu philosophy, is also Lotus born and hence a parallel can be seen). Tibetan Buddhism, followed in Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan and other Himalayan areas consider him as the "Second Buddha". Guru Padmasambhava is believed to have lived in the 8th century. He is also believed to have lived in Nepal and later in Bhutan. It is said that he came to the upper Paro valley in Bhutan and sat in penance at a cliff point for three years, three months, three days and three hours. A temple was constructed at this point around the end of 17th century (1692 AD). 

This place (picture given above) is known as Paro Taktsang, also mentioned as Paro Palphug Monastery and Tiger's Nest. This building and centre has become a symbol of modren Bhutan's most important tourist destination. The importance of the place is for various reasons; its historical relevance, its location, the trek that is required to reach there and its natural beauty are among the many reasons.

Guru Padmasambhava is believed to have flown into this place from Tibet on a flying tiger. This place is therefore known as the Tiger's Nest. To reach Tiger's Nest one has to go on a trek from the Paro valley. The valley itself is at a height of 7,000 above sea level. The nest is at a height of 10,000 feet. The 3,000 feet trek normally takes about 2 hours one way. It is good for younger generation. But one can see local Bhutanese women go on the trek even with small babies in their arms!

A common painting we find in most of the Buddhist temples is the one of "Four Harmonious Friends". Four animals, an elephant, a monkey, a hare and a bird lived in a forest near a tree. They lived happily but somewhere along the way they lost respect for each other. Once respect was gone, conflict surfaced. After realising that conflict is not good for any of them, they decided to respect each other according to their age. How to measure the age? They felt that measurement of age can be with reference to the tree. Each one of them told others about how big the tree was when they first saw it. That settled the order. The bird was the oldest, the hare was next. Monkey and the elephant came later on. Once this was settled, harmony was restored. As the tree grew big, they were unable to reach its fruits. They climbed on each other, get the fruits and share them.

The celebrated principle of respecting age is brought out here, but it also lays emphasis on mutual respect. Seniority cannot be judged merely by age. While it is generally accepted that one matures with age and becomes wiser, it is not always true. Therefore, seniors should also respect the juniors as wisdom is not linked merely to age. Wisdom is a result of advancement in learning and practice. 

For visiting Tiger's Nest one should be able to walk and hike for four to five hours. Physical fitness becomes very important. This is true of other important sight seeing places as well. To enjoy the natural beauty and the adventure, one should visit Bhutan while still young! 

"He River" and "She River"

After landing at Paro International Airport, tourists usually travel by road to Thimphu for sight seeing and stay there for a day or two. The next popular destination for them is Punakha. The 72 Kilo Meter journey by road from Thimphu to Punakha takes about 2 hours on the winding roads in the hills with a river flowing below the roadside as an accompaniment. The delightful journey itself is a sight-seeing trip. The paddy fields and vegetable growing areas can be seen all along on the hill slopes and valleys. 

On a clear day, while driving from Thimphu to Punakha, one can see a number of Himalayan peaks from an elevated place. Boards are placed to enable tourists identify various peaks, as given in the picture alongside. Punakha is a small town in the Bhutan Himalayas and has a population of only 7,000 people. Located at an elation of 1240 meters above sea level (about 4,000 feet), Punakha was the capital of Bhutan till 1955 after which it was moved to Thimphu. Many resorts in the surrounding hills provide comfortable lodging facilities to the tourists.These resorts are well equipped with modren amenities and provide breathtaking views of the Himalayan hill ranges and forests. 

Punakha is especially known for the magnificent  Punakha Dzong. It is also called "Pungthang Dewachen Namgyal" meaning "The Palace of Happiness". Constructed in the year 1637, this beautiful structure is located at the confluence of the two rivers named Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu. Translated to English the names of the rivers is "He river" and "She river". The picture given at the top, taken from the resort in the hills, shows the two rivers and the confluence place. The picture given alongside has a view of the building itself. 

Entry to the Dzong is by crossing the "He river" through a wooden bridge. An entry fee of 300 Rupees is charged for SAARC country tourists. After entering the compound of the building, one has to climb steep stairs to reach the building proper. The big courtyard in the building is the venue for the famous Punakha Tshechu Religious Festival, known for dances by masked characters and music. Tourists are allowed to see only a part of the building as the other areas house monasteries and offices. There is also a "King's Room" which is guarded round the clock and entry restricted to the King and designated officers. 

The Dzong is vulnerable to sudden and flash floods whenever there are heavy rains in the upper Himalayan peaks surrounding the area. River channels are deepened periodically to protect the building from flash floods. A strong compound wall is also being built to prevent flooding. The resorts in the nearby Hilltop Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten give a magnificient view of river, Dzong and the valley. Red and white rice is grown abundantly in the surrounding areas. Tourists also take a walk form the building to reach a hanging bridge on the "She River" that gives a beautiful view on the other side of the building. We get to see some fractured (not a full rainbow) rainbows in rural areas but for city dwellers rainbows are not easily visible. But one can get a full view of semi-circular rainbows across the hills on the opposite side from the resorts housing the guests. As it rains almost daily in the forest peaks, one can get to see these beautiful rainbows every evening.

Another interesting tourist spot in the Punakha valley is the "Temple of Fertility". Legend has it that Lama Drukpa Kunley, also known as "Divine Madman" wanted to move from Tibet to Bhutan to propagate Buddhist philosophy. He shot an arrow from Tibet which landed in this place. Pleased with her devotion, he blessed the girl at whose place the arrow landed with a child. Since then this place is visited by newly married and childless couple and is known as Chimi La Khang.

Punakha valley also provides opportunity for trekking and fishing. Foreigners have to obtain permit for fishing. Permits are allowed on the condition that the fish caught by them are to be put back in water immediately. You have the pleasure of fishing without destroying the fish population!

Buddha on Thimphu Hill

One of the tourist destinations for international travellers after landing at Paro International airport is Thimphu, capital city of Bhutan. Bhutan is a wonderful destination for vacation for various reasons. It is indeed far away from the maddening crowds, for one. The natural beauty of the hill country, its unspoiled rivers and forests, hills and valleys, leisurely pace of life are all contributing factors for a peaceful holiday spend. 

For a traveler from a city of over 10 to 12 million people, Bhutan and Thimphu make very interesting study. The entire population of Bhutan is well below one million, actually around 8,20,000. The capital city of Thimphu is the biggest city and its population is just about 100,000. Its land mass area is about 26 square kilo meters, spread over the valley and hills.

Tashichho Dzong (Thimpu Fortress) is a beautiful and grand building that houses the main government offices. It has a throne room and the King's offices, the secretariat and ministries of Home affairs and Finance. This 13th century building can be seen from a distance as the tourists move around the city. There are no traffic lights in the city. There is only one traffic policeman in the main junction of the city and he is a tourist attraction. Tourists stop near the junction and take his pictures. It is especially amusing for visitors from cities where the traffic hardly moves despite glowing green lights at traffic junctions. The city has three movie theatres, but only Bhutanese movies are screened there.

The Buddha Dordenma statue overlooking the Thimphu city (see picture at the top) was completed in 2015. It is said to be the largest Shakyamuni Buddha statue ever built and sits on a mountain overlooking the city and the valley. The statue measures 177 feet (about 54 meters). The view of the city from the base of the statue is breathtaking one. The sight within the temple is also worth visiting and gives insight into Buddhism, Bhutan culture and way of life in the country. There are more than 100,000 small Buddha statues inside the temple each of which is made of bronze and gilded in gold. It is surrounded by 36 statues of Yakshis and each of them is different from the other.

Agriculture and tourism are the two major activities in Bhutan. One can see farmers selling their produce in designated market areas as well along road side in the highways connecting the three main cities, Thimphu, Punakha and Paro. Abundant quantities of vegetables are grown in the hill slopes and valleys. A type of red rice is grown in the valley taking advantage of abundant water resources and fertile lands in the slopes and valleys. Two crops a year are common and in some areas even three crops a year is grown. Selling local handicrafts, working as guides and drivers for tourists are other important job creators. Government jobs are sought after for the job security they bring.

The many rivers in the country provide opportunity for generation of hydro electricity. There are four major and several small electricity generating stations in the country. Electricity generation is surplus in summer and exported, mainly to India. The many resorts along the river sides provide delightful stay points for the tourists. Spending a few hours on the river front amidst nature in the front or backyard of one's room in the resorts is a delightful experience. The rich variety of Bhutanese food, trekking, fishing and a mere walk on the way to places of tourist interest make a visit to Bhutan a memorable experience.

Airport by the River

There are many airports in different parts of the world. Some of them are very busy and congested. Some of them are very busy but always give a feeling of calm efficiency to the traveler. Some airports are like gardens and some others are modren structures with all engineering marvels. Airports are a means to land in a place and move forward to other destinations for sightseeing or work or business. In any airport, the travellers are eager to come out of the aircraft after landing, collect their baggage and get out of the airport in a car or a cab as fast as possible. This is the normal experience of any seasoned traveler.

Is there any airport which by itself can be a destination for sightseeing? Is there an airport that holds back the visitor for sometime after landing and make him forget the baggage and other issues? Is there an airport where the arriving passengers start clicking photos once they come out of the aircraft? Yes, Paro International Airport in Bhutan is one such airport which is worth visiting just for the thrill of landing and taking off from there. Of course, there are other attractions as well in this place and surrounding areas. The river Paro Cho flowing by the side of the airport is itself a beautiful sight. The picture given above shows the river flowing adjacent to the airport terminal. Visitors usually spend a full week in the surrounding areas before coming back to this airport and taking off to their destinations. There is always a demand from the passengers on the cabin crew for a window seat when the aircraft takes off!

Paro airport is the only international airport in the Kingdom of Bhutan. There are other three airports in the country for meeting domestic needs. The airport is at a short distance (6 Kms) from the town of Paro in a deep valley and on the banks of the river Paro Cho. Paro airport is surrounded by many peaks with some of them as high as 18,000 feet. Airport is itself at a height of 7400 feet above sea level. Landing of aircraft is indeed a challenge to the pilots as the aircraft has to descend into the valley in a set route and land at an angle instead of a straight line as happens in most of the airports.

Landing at Paro is very difficult for three reasons; the high mountain peaks around the runway, many buildings and houses on the flight path and the angular landing requirement. The airport was fully commissioned in 2011 and there were many structures and buildings around by that time. As the aircraft enters the valley, the pilots have to navigate it between the beautiful peaks, manage the landing at an angle amidst the buildings and that too in the short runway. The airport has the distinction of having a runway shorter than its altitude. In view of these challenges, only a select number of specially trained pilots are allowed to land and take off from this airport. Operations are permitted only on visual meteorological conditions.

Our aircraft from Kolkata, an Airbus A-319, took off last fortnight as scheduled and the limited travellers on board due to lean season month provided window seats to all on board. The sight on the flight path was indeed breathtaking and delightful. The skilled pilots navigated the aircraft between the mountain peaks. The clear sky, green forests below and the occasional clouds gave the proper setting. Despite the difficulties in navigation, the landing was very smooth. The terminal building resembles a typical Bhutanese structure and looks like a museum. Immigration officials are friendly and the entire experience at the airport is very rewarding.

Travellers from south India generally take the flights to Paro from Kolkata. These flights are usually timed at around 9 AM. One has to reach Kolkata on the previous night to catch these flights on the next morning. There is a facility of Resting Rooms (not Rest Rooms) in the Kolkata Airport which are as good as in any four star hotel. The rooms are to be arranged from the duty airport manager, before coming out of the arrival exit. Charges are reasonable and a planned visit is comfortable with this arrangement.

Indian citizen can visit Bhutan even without a passport. A Voter identification card (EPIC) is enough for visit as a tourist. Visa is provided on arrival at the airport. There was no visa for us and an authorisation was given by stamping arrival in the passport. Arranged tours are popular. Indian Rupee is widely accepted and has the same value as the local currency as the Bhutanese Ngultrum (BTN) is linked to the rupee. However, 500 and 2000 rupee notes are not widely accepted. Notes of Rupees 100 and 50 denominations are widely accepted. It is advisable to carry 100 rupee notes. Payment can be made by debit and credit cards in some hotels. Most of the temples and museums do not accept card payments. In our experience entry charges in museums and temples is usually 300 rupees per person. 

If one desires to visit Bhutan for a vacation, Paro is the airport to land and take off from. One can also hope to see a landing at the airport by chance, while visiting a temple or a museum at an elevated place high above the runway. We were indeed lucky and could see three such landings and takeoffs during our three days stay in Paro. The "Airport by the River" is a thrill by itself!

Features of Pleasure and Sorrow

What are the features of pleasure and sorrow? What are the sources and reasons that enhance our pleasures or inflict pain on us? What are the symptoms, indications and definitions of pleasure and sorrow? Is there anyone who wants more sorrow and less pleasure? What resources make us happy? What are the items absence of which make us sorrowful? Is it possible to enhance pleasure and decrease sorrow? Are there any methods to control grief and enhance happiness? These are interesting questions. In fact, when analysed minutely, every effort made by us is to prevent sorrowful events and usher in happy hours. Anything that makes us succeed in these efforts is welcome. Anything else that makes us unhappy is be to kept away as far as possible, if eliminating them is not in our control. 

An example of three persons going to sleep after a long day may throw some light on these issues. The first one is poor and does not have a roof of his own. He does not have a bedroom and a bed. A dilapidated roadside structure gives him refuge. Hard floor is his bed. His own folded hand becomes his pillow. The second one is more lucky. He has his own small house and a normal bed. He is much better off than the first. There is some safety and security for him to enjoy his sleep. The third one is even more blessed. He has a wonderful bungalow and spacious bedroom. A decorated cot with soft bed and pillows await him. All the three go to sleep at the same time and get up the next morning. What was the pleasure that a night's sleep gave them? Was it in proportion to the physical facilities they had or did not have? 

The physical aids like bed, cot or pillow and their relative softness or otherwise are relevant till they fall asleep. Once they fall asleep, the pleasure of deep sleep is the same for all of them. One sleeping on a hard surface may be rejuvenated next morning whereas the one on the soft bed may be spending the whole night shifting sides. The qualities of amenities do not make any difference once sound sleep engulfs them.

***** 

Let us consider the example of a sweet dish. A Jamoon or a Rassgulla for example. If you do not like them, substitute it with your own favourite sweet. The first piece is very tasty and consuming it gives a wonderful feeling. The second may give the same feeling or may feel even better. The third would not taste as good, even though it is from the same bowl or sample. The fifth would make you push it aside. An hour later, the same item may appear disgusting if earlier food is not digested and stomach has turned into a gas chamber. 

Jamoon, Rassgulla or the other sweet are the same. Our liking them or not is not dependant on their qualities. The decision to eat or not is based on the mental state and desire to eat, and not due to the qualities of the items per se. Decision is driven by the mind's like or dislike.

*****

Many houses are burgled everyday. Some houses are burnt down. Someone dies in an accident. These are mere news items on the newspaper or TV channel. It does not evoke much sorrow or grief. When the burgled or burnt house belongs to someone known to us, it indeed becomes sorrowful news. Except for those who derive pleasure when a enemy's house is burnt down. Then the same news item brings lot of pleasure!

A house is put on sale. A member of the family is away when the sale process is on. On his return he finds that the house is on fire. His sorrow is uncontrollable and he starts crying. Just then someone informs him that the house was sold last week and full sale consideration was received by his family members only three days ago. He is now looking at the same burning house. But the sorrow is gone. The grief was not due to the burning of the house. It had more to do with the house being owned by him. Once the self interest was delinked, the attachment was gone and the grief too vanished.

*****

These examples make it amply clear that one's pleasure or sorrow does not depend on the tools, resources and their qualities. It is basically linked to the mental state of the person. People are extremely active at times. They are also indifferent at some other times. They even become vengeful and cruel at yet another time. These are all indeed due to mental state and mind's likes and dislikes.

This verse from Vishnu Purana has summed all this thousands of years ago:

नास्ति दुःखात्मकः किञ्चित् न च किञ्चित् सुखात्मकम् |

मनसः परिणामोयं सुख दुःखादि लक्षणः ||

Naasti dukhaatmakam kinchit na cha kinchit sukhaatmakam

Manasah parinaamoyam sukha dukhaadi lakshanah

There is nothing in this world which is pleasurable or sorrowful. 

Mental state decides the qualities of pleasure or sorrow in all objects.

*****

Does this provide any clue to answer the original question? Are there any methods to control grief and enhance happiness? It indeed answers the same emphatically. Having proper control over the mind enables controlling the grief as well enhancing the pleasures of life. Controlling the mind is not easy. It is worse than a wild horse. Continuous efforts to control the mind and developing an attitude of detachment, but not neglect, is the key.