Our Lifelines - The Rivers

A news item dated 2nd November, 2021 in Bangalore Mirror screamed - "No amount of rain can put life in Arkavathy river". It made a sad reading for many of us who were born and brought up on the banks of this river. Arkavathy has been a part of our innumerable childhood memories. Having been an integral part of our lives in the formative years, this river water was the taking care of the needs of the residents of all villages and towns along its banks as well as of Bangalore City, till 1974. The reservoirs at Hesaraghatta and Tippagondana Halli were the main water supply sources to the city.  Hesaraghatta reservoir was constructed in the year 1894, as a first source of drinking water to Bangalore. As the city grew and population increased, another reservoir at Tippagondana Halli was constructed in the year 1933. Illustrious names like K Seshadri Iyer and Sir M Vishveshvarayya are associated with the constructions of these two reservoirs.  As the demand for water increased due to further growth of the city, waters of the Cauvery river were brought in from about 60 miles, near Tore Kadanahalli, in the year 1974. We have now reached a stage where even this arrangement is not sufficient to meet the growing needs of the mega city.

The many "Neelanji" trees on the banks of the Arkavathy river, with their many roots playing in the river waters, provided a wonderful setting for river waters users. There was regular flowing water in the river during rainy seasons. There was some source of water below the sands of the river bed throughout the other months of the year. Urbanisation and excavation of sand from the river bed for decades for roads and other building constructions sadly removed this source. The headline in the newspaper did indeed burn our hearts. 

As if to prove that the river can be brought back to life, the copious rains in Bangalore and surrounding areas in the first week of August 2022 created heavy floods in the river Arkavathy! The floods have been compared to the flood in 1962, sixty years ago when we were in schools and visited the flowing river in our town. Though many rivers have been destroyed due to mindless urbanisation, it is not late even now to remedy the situation, this floods in Arkavathy show.

Recordings of the details of Bangalore's surroundings detail that there were over 300 lakes served by this river, starting from its birth place in Nandi Hills until it merged with river Cauvery just before the famous "Mekedaatu". All these lakes have been mercilessly encroached over the years and land sharks have converted them to residential colonies. A cabinet minister of Karnataka is on record of having said in the state assembly that the administration was forced to fill all the lakes to solve the problem of breeding of mosquitoes! Everyone knows the real reasons for filling up these lakes. The innumerable housing and commercial complexes that have come up on these tank beds are a living testimony for the actions of real estate developers. Whenever there are heavy rains in the area there is regular flooding of water in the houses and buildings in these encroached areas. 

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Rivers have been the arteries and veins of all life on the planet Earth. With their many uses to support all forms of life, rivers have been cradles of civilisations all round the globe. Water is available in many sources on earth; oceans, lakes, wells etc. Rivers provide flowing water and when not polluted, provide fresh potable water at all times. Modren way of life has brought in many dangers to the rivers and their existence. The froth-laden waters of Yamuna flowing near Delhi and Agra is a burning example of our callousness towards rivers.

We in India often remember river Saraswati as one of the sacred rivers. It is believed as a mythical river now. There are many theories about this river. Some claim that the river was flowing in westren India, comprising the present westren parts of India, present day Pakistan and Afghanistan. There are also theories that the river flowed and merged with Ganga and Yamuna in Prayagraj (Allahabad) forming a "Triveni" Sangam. There are a group of people known as "Saraswat" who are believed to have originated from the banks of these river, but now spread over various parts of the country, more so in Maharashtra, Goa and Gujarat. We have not seen this river in our life time. But her name is chanted on a daily basis by many Shraddalu people allover the country.

We have never seen river Saraswati flowing during our life time, yet there are many rivers we saw in our life time, but are now only existing by name and with no water flowing in them during most parts of the year. Cutting down forests and converting them into other purposes have dried up their origin sources which fed water to them. These rivers were well and truly alive when we were children and we have fond memories of having lived by their sides and played in their waters. We have also seen floods in them almost every year. But by the time of our children and grand children, they are existing only in name. Names of some of these rivers are also being forgotten now. This is the price we are paying for unplanned growth and greedy needs of our civilisation.

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A journey from Bangalore to Delhi by train would take two full days in the 1960s. Travelling by air was not an option in those days for most of the people. The 48-hour journey was itself enjoyable and provided an opportunity to cross many rivers on the way. Youngsters would sit on the window seats and wait to see these rivers. The blue waters in some of the big rivers was a treat to watch, especially in the hot summer months. Throwing coins in some of the rivers considered sacred was also seen. Crossing Krishna, Godavari and Narmada rivers was indeed memorable.

Even a small trip of 90 miles (140 KM) from Bangalore to Mysore by train or bus would give a glimpse of a number of rivers on the way. There was Vrushabhavati as soon as one left Bangalore and gave company for some six miles, flowing by the road side. Arkavathy would show up in Ramanagaram, followed by Kanva river after Channapatna. Shimsha would show up just before Maddur. Lokapavani before Srirangapatna heralded East Cauvery and Paschima Vahini, the two branches of Cauvery. As railway locomotives were steam engines, Ramanagaram, Maddur and Srirangapatna were known as water stations. It was a thrilling sight for children to see water being filled into the engines in these stations. As Maddur was near the mid point, the water filling time was also providing an opportunity to the passengers to enjoy the famous "Maddur Vada". 

There are many tourist spots along these rivers. Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary is one of the major tourist attractions in the area. Many film scenes have been shot in the surroundings of this bird sanctuary. One of the popular films "Paakeeza" has riverside and boat scenes shot in this area. The immortal song "Chalo dildar chalo, Chaand ke paar chalo" is filmed in the area between Ranganatittu and GaganaChukki and BharaChukki water falls.

Kanva Resorvoir is a water storage dam constructed on the Kanva river and situate about 8 miles away from the town of Channapatna on the Bangalore - Mysore Highway. It is a scenic spot and popular among the youngsters for picnic and hiking activities. 

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When we think of the rivers we see on the way from Bangalore to Mysore, we also recall the famous temples along the road. Among the many temples are Ramadevara Betta near Ramanagaram, Ambegalu Krishna just outside Channapatna in Maluru, Ugra Narasimha and Varadaraja in Maddur and Sri Ranganatha in Srirangapatna.

The Ambegalu Krishna or Aprameya Swamy in Maluru on the banks of Kanva river, just outside Channapatna is a popular stop for many travellers between Bangalore and Mysore. Legend has it that the king ruling this area married a young girl at his old age. Kings were known to have many wives and many of these marriages were a result of political alignments. When a war is lost, the losing kings often offered their daughters in marriage to the winning kings. This king had a young and handsome son from an earlier marriage and he was expected to succeed the throne. The king's young wife took interest in this young prince and desired to develop relationship with him. The young man refused and advised her that their relation is of mother and son and they should stick to it.

The slighted stepmother went to the king and complained about the prince that he was behaving badly with her. The king ordered that the prince's legs be cut off and and he be thrown into the Kanva river. The orders were carried out. The elderly minister approached Sri Brahmanya Tirtha, a sage in the nearby village Abbur, situate on the other bank of the river, to remedy the situation. It is believed that Sri Brahmanya Tirtha gave holy Mrittika (mud) and advised that it be applied on the wounds. In due course the prince's legs started growing and he became normal. The temple got the name Maluru, meaning the germinating process in the local language.

Of course, there are many other versions of the story about the temple and how the place got the name Maluru. The idol of Krishna with a bowl of butter in his hand is beautiful. It is believed that Sri Purandaradasa composed the song "Aadisidaleshoda jagadoddharana" at this temple. The festivities at the temple reach the peak during Krishna Jayanti celebrations. Many people from nearby areas converge to worship at the temple during these days.

"He River" and "She River"

After landing at Paro International Airport, tourists usually travel by road to Thimphu for sight seeing and stay there for a day or two. The next popular destination for them is Punakha. The 72 Kilo Meter journey by road from Thimphu to Punakha takes about 2 hours on the winding roads in the hills with a river flowing below the roadside as an accompaniment. The delightful journey itself is a sight-seeing trip. The paddy fields and vegetable growing areas can be seen all along on the hill slopes and valleys. 

On a clear day, while driving from Thimphu to Punakha, one can see a number of Himalayan peaks from an elevated place. Boards are placed to enable tourists identify various peaks, as given in the picture alongside. Punakha is a small town in the Bhutan Himalayas and has a population of only 7,000 people. Located at an elation of 1240 meters above sea level (about 4,000 feet), Punakha was the capital of Bhutan till 1955 after which it was moved to Thimphu. Many resorts in the surrounding hills provide comfortable lodging facilities to the tourists.These resorts are well equipped with modren amenities and provide breathtaking views of the Himalayan hill ranges and forests. 

Punakha is especially known for the magnificent  Punakha Dzong. It is also called "Pungthang Dewachen Namgyal" meaning "The Palace of Happiness". Constructed in the year 1637, this beautiful structure is located at the confluence of the two rivers named Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu. Translated to English the names of the rivers is "He river" and "She river". The picture given at the top, taken from the resort in the hills, shows the two rivers and the confluence place. The picture given alongside has a view of the building itself. 

Entry to the Dzong is by crossing the "He river" through a wooden bridge. An entry fee of 300 Rupees is charged for SAARC country tourists. After entering the compound of the building, one has to climb steep stairs to reach the building proper. The big courtyard in the building is the venue for the famous Punakha Tshechu Religious Festival, known for dances by masked characters and music. Tourists are allowed to see only a part of the building as the other areas house monasteries and offices. There is also a "King's Room" which is guarded round the clock and entry restricted to the King and designated officers. 

The Dzong is vulnerable to sudden and flash floods whenever there are heavy rains in the upper Himalayan peaks surrounding the area. River channels are deepened periodically to protect the building from flash floods. A strong compound wall is also being built to prevent flooding. The resorts in the nearby Hilltop Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten give a magnificient view of river, Dzong and the valley. Red and white rice is grown abundantly in the surrounding areas. Tourists also take a walk form the building to reach a hanging bridge on the "She River" that gives a beautiful view on the other side of the building. We get to see some fractured (not a full rainbow) rainbows in rural areas but for city dwellers rainbows are not easily visible. But one can get a full view of semi-circular rainbows across the hills on the opposite side from the resorts housing the guests. As it rains almost daily in the forest peaks, one can get to see these beautiful rainbows every evening.

Another interesting tourist spot in the Punakha valley is the "Temple of Fertility". Legend has it that Lama Drukpa Kunley, also known as "Divine Madman" wanted to move from Tibet to Bhutan to propagate Buddhist philosophy. He shot an arrow from Tibet which landed in this place. Pleased with her devotion, he blessed the girl at whose place the arrow landed with a child. Since then this place is visited by newly married and childless couple and is known as Chimi La Khang.

Punakha valley also provides opportunity for trekking and fishing. Foreigners have to obtain permit for fishing. Permits are allowed on the condition that the fish caught by them are to be put back in water immediately. You have the pleasure of fishing without destroying the fish population!

Beautiful Rangolis!

Purandaradasa walked into his little hut-like house near the banks of the river Tungabhadra in Vijayanagara (present Hampi in Bellary District of Karnataka) and called his wife.  Saraswati was busy doing something in the backyard.  She recognised something urgent in her husband's voice and came to him with hurried steps.

"Saraswati, today's rangoli is very beautiful.  I have not seen such beautiful Rangoli done by you before!"
"Ah, I am glad you noticed them at least today"
"Why, are you making such beautiful Rangolis everyday?"
"Where is the time for you to observe them?"
"Why do you say so? Don't I observe these things?"
"Half the time you are lost in the thought of Purandara Vittala. Other half is spent in Vyasaraja Guru's mutt"
"Do you mean to say that they are done this beautifully every day?"
"For the last two weeks or so"
"Where did you learn this? And from whom?"
"I wish I had done them.  But not me"
"Not you? How is it? Who else will do it in front of our house?"
"I wish I knew. But honestly I do not know!"
"This is indeed a strange act. Such a fine art"
"I have also been observing. Each day it is different.  Some days it is with powder. Some other days it is done with different coloured substances.  Some days it is with flowers.  And the type of flowers that are not be seen anywhere near Vijayanagara or nearby areas! I wonder who brings them and from where?"
"This is very intriguing. Come, let us take a look together"

 "This is just beautiful. Flower pots have been kept around it to prevent someone from inadvertently stepping on them"
"This has been the most colourful of them all.  No wonder you observed it today"
"Saraswati, but who is really doing this? It was not there when I went out very early today"
"When I came out with the broom and water pot to clean the yard in the morning before sunrise, it was already there"
"Somebody is doing a favour to us. We should thank them and find out the reason for such a favour"
"I agree. But how to do it?"  "Let me think and find a way"

Purandaradasa could not sleep that night.  He was wondering about the event that perplexed him and his wife.  Early in the morning he heard some noise and movement in the front yard.  He felt he heard some women talking in a low voice.  He got up and silently moved towards the window to have a better view of the goings on.  What he saw totally surprised him.  The seven women had already cleaned the front yard and were now engaged in making a new Rangoli, this time with flowers.  He waited till they finished their work and came out of the front door just as the group was moving away and spoke to them.

"Please let me thank you for your kind favours showered on us. You are not among the human women folk and all of you are radiating heavenly charm and divinity.  Please favour me with your real identity"

All of them turned towards the saint and faced him for the first time.  Purandaradasa was struck by the benign radiance of their presence.  Their leader spoke to him with all reverence.

"I am Ganga.  These are Yamuna, Godavari, Saraswati, Narmada, Sindhu and Kaveri.  We are the seven rivers that flow in this land.  We did not want to disturb you.  Though we are sorry we disturbed your rest, we are indeed lucky to see you and talk to you today"

"It is indeed my good fortune to see all of you together today.  It is difficult to have darshan of even one of you after a long meditation.  Please bless me by advising me the reason for decorating my hut with such beautiful Rangolis"

"People all over the country come and bathe in our waters and get rid of their sins.  We have no way to dispose off all those accumulated sins.  We come to the abode of pious people like you and do some little service.  The accumulated  sins left by all the people gets destroyed by serving someone like you who is always thinking of the Lord and singing in his praise.  Now please permit us to get back to our duties."

All of them bowed to him with respect and received his own salutations with due kindness.  Next moment they had all disappeared.  The beautiful flower Rangoli remained a witness to this strange spectacle.

This might well be an imaginary story.  But its beauty lies in its conception.  How many stories are actually true?