A link to the past

A trip to Kashmir is usually with the objective of sight-seeing and going on a vacation. It is often heard people mention, "Why go to Switzerland when Kashmir is here?".  This is only simplifying things.  Switzerland has its own distinct place in the history and geography as well as a tourist destination. The same is true of Kashmir as well. A visit to Kashmir is something more; it is not merely sight-seeing or vacationing, but it is in realizing a link to the past. Time spent in Kashmir not only meets the routine interests of a tourist, but also brings in a realization that our history, culture or literature is incomplete without understanding Kashmir's contribution to them. As the highly respected scholar and teacher Prof Navjivan Rastogi mentions, "The Indian notion of Anadi  (beginningless time) and Ananta (endless worldly cycle) happens to be a great deterrent of any historical activity in the modren sense of measurable time".  The reality of this strikes us when we visit the Avantipura temple ruins.

Avantipura is in Pulwama district of Jammu and Kashmir.  It is between Srinagar and Anantnag and 29 kilometers from Srinagar on the NH 1A. Avantipura was the capital of King Awanti Varma of Utpal dynasty, who ruled between 855 AD to 883 AD. History has recorded that he was a forward looking King and his rule was prosperous and people friendly. He is said to have got many temples constructed among which a Shiva temple (Awantiswar temple) and a Vishnu temple (Awantiswamin temple) stand out. Tourists are taken to the ruins of the temple on the highway during the drive to Pahalgam.  

The temple site is maintained by Archeological Survey of India (ASI) which also maintains the ruins of other sites like temples built during King Lalitaditya's period. The temples have beautiful stone carvings and structures of that time. It is a reflection of the 9th century Kashmiri Shaivism.  It may be noted that the period of Anandavardhana who is considered as the most brilliant critic in Sanskrit literature and writer of celebrated work "Dhwanyaloka" coincided ( 820 AD to 890 AD) with the rule of Awanti Varma. It was the golden period of Kashmir's contribution to Literature and culture. 

The temple ruins have withstood the ravages of time and the intricate carvings on the stone slabs and decorations can be seen even now. ASI has maintained the sites very well and one can see many salient aspects of the construction of the temple by a detailed study of the temple site. Kashmir's history and literature can be understood better when one links the historical knowledge with the physical presence of the temple ruins. The pictures given alongside show some details of the remains of what once was a magnificent temple.  The layout of the temple as well as attention to even minor details in the carvings stand out as a testimony to the capabilities of the artisans of that period.

Many of the present names used in Kashmir have their roots in its past history. Varaha-mula is now Baramulla and Rajapuram has become Rajouri. Panchals is now referred as Pir Panjals. Present Jammu was known as Jamboo then. Kashmir rulers were patrons of poets, philosophers and artists. They had control over large parts of India and their rule extended to as far as Punjab, Kalinga (Orissa-Andhra), Malwa (Madhya Bharat including Ujjain and Indore) and Gujarat. Doyens of literature like Acharya Abhinava Gupta  have enriched our literature, art and culture.

A trip to kashmir is indeed a great sight-seeing opportunity.  It is truly a place for enjoying one's vacation.  It is also a time to remember its rich cultural heritage and pay our tributes to the contribution made to our generation and mankind at large. 

To Sonmarg, along the river Sindh

Sonmarg is a popular destination for any tourist visiting Kashmir.  Sonmarg is at a distance of 95 Kilometers (about 60 miles) from Srinagar and can be reached by road in a pleasant journey of three hours.  Journey is pleasant though it is through winding and hilly road due to the beautiful scenery all along the way.  The journey from Srinagar to Sonmarg for most part is along the river Sind or Sindh.  The road winds along the banks of this river and the sight of the river valley on the one side and the Himalayan peaks on the other is indeed breath taking.  A view of the winding roads and the river waters can be seen in the picture given below.

The river Sind or Sindh mentioned here is different from the Sindhu or Indus, which is reckoned among one of the seven sacred rivers that we invoke each day during our prayers. This river Sind or Sindh takes its birth in the Machoi Glacier in the east of Amaranath caves and flows for a distance of 108 Kilometers (about 68 miles) before joining the river Jhelum or Vitasta. It merges with Jhelum at Shadipora, 17 Kilometers north-west of Srinagar. As against this, river Sindhu or Indus originates in Manasasarovar in Ladakh and flows through Ladakh, Gilgit, and Baltistan and reaches the Arabian sea near the city of Karachi.  Sindhu or Indus flows for a length of 3180 Kilometers (about 1980 miles).  The only relation between the two rivers is that Sind merges with Jhelum and Jhelum is a tributary of Chenab, just like Ravi, Beas and Sutlej.  Chenab is itself a major tributary of Indus or Sindhu. 

The river Sindh provides a wonderful setting to the sight seeing trip.  The road is just by the side of the river in some places and tempts the tourists to get down and play in its chill waters. River rafting and fishing are popular pastime on the river Sindh. Permits are required for fishing in the river and can be obtained by applying to the Fisheries department. The river flows through Panjtarni, which is a camping site for Amaranath yatra. This is said to be the only river in Kashmir on which hydro-electric power plants are functional.  

Sonmarg is on the Srinagar-Ladakh highway and means "Meadow of Gold". It is a trekking heaven and enthusiast trekkers find many camping sites around this place. Warm and rainproof clothing is required for trekking and sightseeing and available for hire. Tourists are taken in Jeeps further up in the "Harmukh" range of Himalayas to see the Thajiwas glaciers. Tourists can go further to Manasbal lake on ponies and onwards to Amaranath cave. Baltal is 12 kilometers from Sonmarg and Amaranath cave can be reached in two days from there. Tourists have different activities on the snow clad areas of Sonmarg like in Gulmarg, except that there is no Gondola ride.  Other attractions like sledge rides and skiing are available. 

Sonmarg trip is indeed one of the highlights of a Kashmir trip, just like Pahalgam, Gulmarg and Chandanwari.  If the weather cooperates and you have a sunny day without rains, you are indeed blessed by mother nature.  The white snow clad peaks, green trees, blue waters of the river and the various colors of the flowers take us to a different world of colors altogether. 

Kindled the flame of Tulip buds

When spring winds weakened the mountain floods,

And kindled the flame of the Tulip buds,

When bees grew loud and the days grew long,

And the peach groves thrilled to the Oriole's song....

Queen Gulnaar was the most beautiful woman of her times.  As the Queen of King Feroz of Persia (present day Iran), she had everything she needed in this world.  Her husband was very fond of her and all material wealth was at her beck and call.  Yet she was not happy and one desire haunted her each time she saw her own image in the mirror.  She longed for a rival!  "Give me a rival, King Feroz", she begged her husband and King.  She felt an emptiness in her life as there was no one matching her beauty.  Just to satisfy her desire of having a rival, the King commanded his ministers to bring in unmatched beauties in the world. They brought seven most beautiful brides for the KIng.  The King married them all, led them to her room and told her that he has brought her the rivals she desired.

Seven Queens shone around her ivory bed,

Like seven soft gems on a silken thread,

Like seven fair lamps on a royal tower,

Like seven petals of the Beauty's flower...

Queen Gulnaar was not satisfied.  Though they were seven beautiful brides, they were no match for her beauty.  They were only fit for being her handmaids. "Bring me a rival, King Feroz", she again demanded.

A few years later the Queen was looking at her own image in the mirror.  Her two-year old little daughter runs to her, snatches the mirror and views her own image in it.  At last Queen Gulnaar is satisfied.

Queen Gulnaar laughed like a tremulous rose;

"Here is my rival, O King Feroz"   

*****

The story of Queen Gulnaar and King Feroz is the theme of a delightful poem titled "Queen's Rival" by Sarojini Naidu, known as the "Nightingale of India".  Sarojini Naidu (1879-1949) was born as Sarojini Chattopadhyay and lived in Hyderabad in her early years. She married a doctor, Govindarajulu Naidu, and later came to be known as Sarojini Naidu. Her brother Harindranath Chattopadhyay was a well-known actor and writer.  His role as an actor in the Hindi movie "Bawarchi" was one of his memorable performances.  Sarojini Naidu took part in the freedom struggle and was president of Indian National Congress in 1925 and presided over the AICC session in Kanpur.  She became the first woman Governor of an Indian state, of United Provinces of Agra and Oudh, before formation of Uttar Pradesh.  Her daughter Padmaja Naidu also worked in politics and later became Governor of West Bengal.

Sarojini Naidu spent her early life in Hyderabad with her father Aghoranath Chattopadhyay, who was the Principal of the Nizam Medical College.  Thus she became well versed with culture of the surroundings.  She was later educated in King's College, London and Cambridge University.  This led her to writing poems in English.  She learnt Persian language and wrote a play "Maher Muneer" in Persian. "Queen's Rival", story of a Persian King and Queen, was probably a natural product of her learning Persian. Her poetry in English language is of rich quality and expressions are a reflection of her keen observation of the surroundings and human emotions.

*****

The first time I heard of Tulip flower was while studying the poem "Queen's Rival" in High School, nearly five decades ago. I asked the teacher in the class: "What is Tulip and why kindling them?".  He answered that it was a flower.  "What is Oriole?" was the next question.  It is a bird, he said.  Further questions did not elicit any response as he had seen neither the flower nor the bird.  The next encounter with Tulips was while viewing the song "Dekha ek khwab to ye Gul khile huye" in the film "Silsila" filmed on Amitabh Bachan and Rekha. During our visit to Srinagar in Kashmir last month, we had an opportunity to visit "Kashmir Tulip Festival", in the Indira Gandhi Memorial Garden.

  

Oriole is a bright colored singing bird found in such surroundings.  Tulip flowers originated in Persia and traveled to other parts of the world in the 10th century.  The word "Tulip" has Persian origin.  It grows in mountainous areas of temperate climate. Long and cool spring period is required for growing Tulip flowers.  Vast areas of Tulip flowers in as many as 16 colors are grown in regions with such climatic conditions.  

Tulip flower moved to Europe in the 16th century and as the climate in Holland suited its growing, many acres around Amsterdam are used to grow the flower now. "Holland Tulip Festival" held during the months of April-May (April end and early May) draws huge tourist crowds from all over the world.  Cycle road trips along the over 100 Kilometer Tulip route is considered as one of the most beautiful road trips by National Geographic.  Kashmir Tulip festival also is held around the same dates. The beauty of Tulip gardens can be enjoyed for a period of a fortnight only. Untimely rains rob the pleasure as it damages the flowers. Tourists have to plan their visit to coincide with the Tulip Festival.

*****   

The real lesson of "Queen's Rival" was indeed learnt when we were standing in the Tulip Gardens of Srinagar, with the Himalayan range in the background.  Each word of the poem had its special meaning.  It was truly spring winds that had weakened the mountain floods; there were heavy floods in Srinagar just a week ago.  Flame-like looking Tulip buds had flowered as if their tops were kindled! The flowers (there were other flowers too around the Tulips) had attracted innumerable bees and the sound they made was indeed loud. With the onset of spring, days were growing longer and thus shortening the time span cold nights occupied.  It was time for flowering in the peach and apple gardens making the beautiful Orioles to sing in their sweet voice......  Every word the poet said in the poem was before our eyes. She had indeed experienced each of these and made a mental note to enable reproducing them later in her poem!

Reading and relishing quality poetry is not mere understanding of words.  It is much more than that; it is mentally and emotionally transforming oneself into a different world. Thoughts of the famous 9th century Kashmiri poet-philosopher Anandavardhana and his celebrated work "Dwhanyaloka" naturally flooded the mind. His "Dhwani Theory" states that when a poet writes, he creates a resonance with a particular wavelength.  Only when the reader is tuned to that wavelength, he can understand and appreciate the poet's works. A local poet's Dhwani (Sound) Theory was understood through an English poem about a Persian Queen by an Indian writer, while standing mesmerized  in a Tulip garden with the backdrop of the Himalayan range!