Saturday, September 29, 2018

"He River" and "She River"


After landing at Paro International Airport, tourists usually travel by road to Thimphu for sight seeing and stay there for a day or two. The next popular destination for them is Punakha. The 72 Kilo Meter journey by road from Thimphu to Punakha takes about 2 hours on the winding roads in the hills with a river flowing below the roadside as an accompaniment. The delightful journey itself is a sight-seeing trip. The paddy fields and vegetable growing areas can be seen all along on the hill slopes and valleys. 


On a clear day, while driving from Thimphu to Punakha, one can see a number of Himalayan peaks from an elevated place. Boards are placed to enable tourists identify various peaks, as given in the picture alongside. Punakha is a small town in the Bhutan Himalayas and has a population of only 7,000 people. Located at an elation of 1240 meters above sea level (about 4,000 feet), Punakha was the capital of Bhutan till 1955 after which it was moved to Thimphu. Many resorts in the surrounding hills provide comfortable lodging facilities to the tourists.These resorts are well equipped with modren amenities and provide breathtaking views of the Himalayan hill ranges and forests. 


Punakha is especially known for the magnificent  Punakha Dzong. It is also called "Pungthang Dewachen Namgyal" meaning "The Palace of Happiness". Constructed in the year 1637, this beautiful structure is located at the confluence of the two rivers named Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu. Translated to English the names of the rivers is "He river" and "She river". The picture given at the top, taken from the resort in the hills, shows the two rivers and the confluence place. The picture given alongside has a view of the building itself. 

Entry to the Dzong is by crossing the "He river" through a wooden bridge. An entry fee of 300 Rupees is charged for SAARC country tourists. After entering the compound of the building, one has to climb steep stairs to reach the building proper. The big courtyard in the building is the venue for the famous Punakha Tshechu Religious Festival, known for dances by masked characters and music. Tourists are allowed to see only a part of the building as the other areas house monasteries and offices. There is also a "King's Room" which is guarded round the clock and entry restricted to the King and designated officers. 

The Dzong is vulnerable to sudden and flash floods whenever there are heavy rains in the upper Himalayan peaks surrounding the area. River channels are deepened periodically to protect the building from flash floods. A strong compound wall is also being built to prevent flooding. The resorts in the nearby Hilltop Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten give a magnificient view of river, Dzong and the valley. Red and white rice is grown abundantly in the surrounding areas. Tourists also take a walk form the building to reach a hanging bridge on the "She River" that gives a beautiful view on the other side of the building. We get to see some fractured (not a full rainbow) rainbows in rural areas but for city dwellers rainbows are not easily visible. But one can get a full view of semi-circular rainbows across the hills on the opposite side from the resorts housing the guests. As it rains almost daily in the forest peaks, one can get to see these beautiful rainbows every evening.

Another interesting tourist spot in the Punakha valley is the "Temple of Fertility". Legend has it that Lama Drukpa Kunley, also known as "Divine Madman" wanted to move from Tibet to Bhutan to propagate Buddhist philosophy. He shot an arrow from Tibet which landed in this place. Pleased with her devotion, he blessed the girl at whose place the arrow landed with a child. Since then this place is visited by newly married and childless couple and is known as Chimi La Khang.

Punakha valley also provides opportunity for trekking and fishing. Foreigners have to obtain permit for fishing. Permits are allowed on the condition that the fish caught by them are to be put back in water immediately. You have the pleasure of fishing without destroying the fish population!

7 comments:

  1. Beautifully written . The description is so clear. I could visualise everything .

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  2. A beautiful description indeed. I would love to visit the place after getting married sir.

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  3. Informative..... Written in lucid language... Thanks

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  4. Very vividly written. Stimulates us to visit the place. Writing is both a skill and an art, and you have proved it Sir , again ! Vasudevan S

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  5. A continuation from last week , look forward to more information on locations visited by you in Bhutan.

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  6. Your write up tempts me to visit Bhutan!!!

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  7. From He, She, fertility, arrow to child, you have made your travelogue very interesting. Thank you.

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